BEER 101

Among wines there is a natural division by color, red, white and rosé. But the natural division among beers is by the type of yeast used.

Ales use top-fermenting yeasts which ferment at the "top" of the fermentation vessel, and typically at higher temperatures (60°-75°F) than lager yeasts. As a result, fermentation occurs in a shorter period of time (7-8 days, or even less). Beers made with top-fermenting yeasts are able to interact with wild yeast in the air and are more apt to have more individualistic and expressive palates, because of that. Ale yeasts produce esters during fermentation (they are formed by organic acids reacting with alcohol) and they give ales their floral and fruity flavors and aromas.

Lagers are brewed with yeasts that ferment at the bottom of the fermentation vessel where they are less affected by the wild yeast in the air. As a result, bottom-fermenting beers tend to be cleaner and rounder, but the trade-off is that they may be less individualistic. Lager yeasts also produce fewer esters than ale yeasts so other flavors and aromas like those created by hops show more.

The fermentation of a lager occurs at a cooler temperature (around 34°F) and for a longer period of time. After fermentation the lager is then stored at cooler temperatures to mature. This is where the name “lager” comes from. The German word “lagen” means "to store".

What Makes a Beer?

The Malts

As grapes are to wine, so barley malt is to beer. It is the classic source of fermentable sugar for making the beer. Grapes grown for wine are thought to be more vulnerable to differences in soil and weather, but barley is also a crop dependent on those conditions. For instance, some brewers believe barley grown in the summer produces cleaner-tasting, sweeter malts, and inland, "continental" barleys produce better results than those grown in maritime climates. Then, with different growing conditions from year to year do result in differences in the quality and availability of barley. But in general the complexities of winemaking occur primarily in the vineyard management. Once you have the grapes, the process of making wine is not particularly complex. The goal of the winemaker is to make the wine that shows off the grapes. But the actual process of making the beer is the more complicated process. Once the brewer has the barley, then he has to consider what style of beer he is trying to produce and then he has to come up with the fine detail of his mashing procedure.

The barley is malted (steeped in water until it partially germinates, then dried in a kiln) to release the starches. Those starches are then turned into fermentable sugars by making an infusion, adding hops as a seasoning, and the whole brewed before it can be fermented, matured and conditioned. In carrying out these procedures, the brewer is seeking to impart (in aroma, palate and finish) his own balance between the sweetness of the barley malt and the herby dryness of the hop, and the background fruitiness of the yeast used in fermentation. The balance will be weighted differently according to the style of beer being made, but it must always be achieved. After balance comes complexity. Each beer is expected to have the specific qualities of its beer style, but beyond that it should have also a personality of its own. Each time the drinker raises a glass of a fine beer, new dimensions of aroma and flavor should become apparent.

The Hops

Historically distillers, wine-makers and beer-makers lacked the knowledge to produce the quality they sought, so herbs and spices were added to the beverage. Today you still see vermouths and the patented aperitifs like Campari. Distillers used a spicing of juniper and coriander to dry the palate and thus created gin. In beer-making, hops became the standard choice. The cones produce tannins that help to clarify and preserve the beer, and resins and essential oils are the principal sources of aroma and dryness. This dryness (bitterness) is part of the flavor balance of beer. An especially "hoppy" beer is a marvelous aperitif because its bitterness arouses the gastric juices. A very “hoppy” beer will be full of earthy, aromatic, and herbal flavors. Each variety of hops is usually identified as being ideal either for bitterness or aroma, so most often a brewer will use more than one variety for each beer.

The Yeast

Among wines there is a natural division by color, red, white and rosé. The natural division among beers is by the type of yeast used. Top-fermenting yeasts are used to make ales, and bottom-fermenting yeasts are used to make lagers. For centuries all beers were made with top-fermenting yeasts. These yeasts were able to cross-breed with wild microorganisms in the atmosphere, which could lead to spoilage in warm weather. Over time it was learned that the beer could be stabilized if it were stored (or in German, lagered) in cooler temperatures. This was not simply because of the storage in cooler temperatures slowed spoilage, but also because the yeast sank to the bottom of the tank and was less vulnerable to contact with the wild microorganisms. As more was learned about the behavior of yeast in the 19th century, bottom-fermenting yeasts were methodically bred.

Today, all of the older brewing styles, such as English Ales, Porters, and Stouts, German Altbier, Kölsch and all wheat beers are made with top-fermenting yeasts. , Top-fermenting yeasts ferment at warm temperatures (59-77ºF/15-25ºC). The beer is then matured or conditioned for a few days, or up to a couple of weeks in those warm temperatures. This beer has been "warm conditioned", and most fully express its palate when served at a natural cellar temperature (55ºF/12ºC).

All of the lager styles are made with bottom-fermenting yeasts. These include such German beer styles as Pilsners, Müncheners (a classic dark lager), Dortmunders (the style is actually an Export, which has more body and is less dry than a Pilsner, but not as sweet as a Munich pale beer), Märzen (which is an amber lager brewed in March and lagered until Octoberfest time), Bock, Double Bock (their names usually end in -ator in honor of the Paulaner Salvator) and American malt liquors. Bottom-fermenting yeasts ferment at cooler temperatures (41-48ºF/5-9ºC). The beer is then matured by being stored (lagered) at around 32ºF/0ºC. Many mass-marketed beers are lagered for barely three weeks, but traditionalists argue for three months. Bottom-fermenting beers taste best when chilled to between 45ºF/7ºC and 50ºF/10ºC (the lighter the body the lower the temperature).

In both techniques, very strong ales and lagers are matured for longer periods, sometimes 9-12 months. This is the period in which the remaining yeast settles, harsh flavor compounds mellow out, and the beer gains its natural texture and carbonation (it's "condition"). In Britain, classic ales are delivered to a pub with some working yeast in the cask, so they can reach prime condition in the cellar. This is known as "cask-conditioning". Some specialty ales are bottled without filtration, or with an added dosage of yeast, as in the "method Champenoise". This is known as "bottle-conditioning".

Beers made with top-fermenting yeasts tend to have more individualistic and expressive palates, often with elements of fruitiness and acidity. Bottom-fermenting beers tend to be cleaner and rounder, but the trade-off is that they may be less individualistic.

The Water

In the 18th and 19th centuries, sources of pure water were not always easy to find. That is why towns or cities with good sources – such as Pilsen and Munich in continental Europe and Burton and Tadcaster in England - became centers of brewing. Even today, a source of water that requires little or no treatment is an asset to a brewery.80

Styles of Beer

A beer style is a label given to a beer that describes its overall character, and often its origin. It's a label that has evolved over many centuries of trial and error brewing, marketing, and consumer acceptance. Today, all of the older brewing styles, such as English Ales, Porters, and Stouts, German Altbier and Kölsch, Belgian Ales and all wheat beers are made with top-fermenting yeasts. So they tend to be more individualistic. All of the lager styles are made with bottom-fermenting yeasts. In both techniques, very strong ales and lagers are matured for longer periods, sometimes 9-12 months. This is when the remaining yeast settles, harsh flavors mellow out, and the beer gains its natural texture and carbonation (it is "conditioned"). Many of the stronger beers are aged like fine wine and should be handled and consumed with the same respect. They come from long traditions of craftsmanship in the various countries they come from. The new beers will represent these styles:

Strong Scottish Ales – The Scotch Ale is the biggest and maltiest of the ales from Scotland. Its unique taste draws strongly from the brewing ingredients available to the early Scots. Barley grew very well in Scotland, but hops did not. As a result these beers are more malty (sweeter) and less bitter because fewer hops were used. The relatively high alcohol content makes it a good warming drink for a rainy winter day. Some examples are: the Scottish Courage breweriy’s beer, McEwan's Scotch Ale, Three Floyds Brewing Company of Munster, Indiana makes another good example of a Scotch Ale called Robert the Bruce. But unlike most examples of the style, Robert the Bruce includes a nice dose of hops to balance the malty sweetness of the brew.

English Strong Ales – More full-bodied than a Pale Ale yet lighter than a Barleywine, the English Strong Ale is a rich and complex beer. Many are unfiltered and bottle conditioned. The color tends to be somewhere between amber and reddish copper. They usually have bold fruit and malt flavors and aromas. Their hops can vary from mild bitterness to bold hop flavor and aroma.

Imperial Stouts (also known as Russian Imperial Stouts) – Although they originated in England, they actually gained the name "Imperial" because of its popularity in the Czarist court. In addition, its warming nature gave it a broad appeal among the Russian army and as a restorative in Russian hospitals. Imperial Stouts are the biggest, darkest and most complex of beers. They are inky black, have flavors and aromas of chocolate, and a bitterness that comes both from the hops and from dark-roasted grain. Many producers vintage-date their Imperial Stouts so they can be cellared like a fine wine. After dinner, a glass of Imperial Stout can be as satisfying a conclusion to a meal as a cognac.

American and English Style Barleywine – These beers are similar to wine only in the amount of alcohol they contain (10%). In color, expect anything from amber to dark brown colored beer. The American style Barleywines are aggressive, complex and the mix of malt and hops emphasizes the hops. English style Barleywines are more balanced, with less emphasis on the bitterness of the hops. Both are very full bodied and assertive in flavors, and can be cellared. Both styles are a perfect match for spicy, full-flavored foods or for sipping by the fireplace to savor the complex, lingering tones of these amazing ales. Barleywines often have the name “Old” in them. Some examples are: Young’s Stone Brewing Company’s Vintage-dated Old Guardian, J.W. Lees’ Vintage Harvest Ale, Victory’s Old Horizontal, and Rogue’s Old Crustacean.

Bocks – Bock beers are primarily brewed in Germany, but are also made by other European brewers and some American microbrewries and brewpubs. They are bottom-fermenting brews and have more body than a typical lager. They are also stronger than a typical lager so it usually takes additional months of lagering (cold storage) to smooth out such a strong brew. In Germany, Bocks can be golden, tawny or dark brown, but outside of Germany a Bock is usually dark. Either way they generally have more of a malt character. Hop bitterness can be assertive enough to balance though must not get in the way of the malt flavor. Most are only lightly hopped. Bocks can be broken down further into the following categories :

• Traditional Bocks are the most common Bocks. They are generally dark in color, have more malty sweetness and less bitter.
• Maibocks are the lightest in color of the Bock beers. They are brewed in fall or winter, stored for several months, and served in late spring (for Lent). They are drier and more bitter than a traditional Bock.
• A Doppelbock was historically a winter beer, but most are now brewed year around. They have an intense malt flavor, with almost no hop bitterness. Color can range from amber to dark brown. The names of a Doppelbock beer often end in “ator”, in honor of the original Doppelbock beer, Paulaner Salvator.
• Eisbocks are the most intensely flavored Bocks. When a Bock beer is frozen the water-based “ice” can be removed. The resulting beer is more concentrated. It has higher alcohol content, and a richer more complex flavor. They can be amber to dark brown in color.
• Weizenbocks are brewed with significant quantities of wheat. Most are amber or brown in color. They combine the clove, vanilla, and banana aromas of regular German wheat beers with the strong malt of a Bock.

Some good examples of Bocks include the following. The Einbecker brewery of Bavaria, Germany, makes a Traditional Bock that is malty but not too heavy, with a noticeable dose of hops and a rich, brown color. Sierra Nevada Brewing Company, one of America's best breweries, makes a Pale Bock that is delicious and a great interpretation of the Maibock style. Optimator, from the Spaten brewery in Munich, is a rustic, rugged version of a Doppelbock. The Eggenberg brewery in Austria makes an Eisbock called Urbock Dunkel Eisbock, and Kulmbacher in Germany brews a product known simply as Eisbock. The best known examples of Weizenbocks are Aventinus, by G. Schneider and Sohn, and Pinkantus, by Erdinger. Both are reddish-brown in color and are brewed in Bavaria.

Belgian Ales - No other country (even those with far more breweries) has so many diverse, individual, idiosyncratic and colorful beer styles as Belgium. You will see Lambics, White Beers, Brown Beers, Red Beers, British-style Ales, Amber Belgian Ales, Saisons, Trappist Beers, Abbey Beers, Golden Ales, Local Specialties, Golden Lagers and Luxembourg Ales. Some of these have ABV lower than 6% and were available previously, but if they are new to you, check them out too.

• Trappist Ales – When it comes to beer, the term "Trappist" is more of an appellation rather than a style of beer. By law, only the six breweries in Belgium owned by the Trappist monks are entitled to use the term “Trappist” on their products. But other breweries try to emulate the originals by using similar sounding names such as "Abbey" or "Abbey-style". An interesting point to note about the true Trappist beers is that a major portion of the income from sales is used by the monks to support charitable works. Trappist ales are strong (6-12% ABV), top-fermenting brews. Candy sugar is used in the brew kettle to provide enough sugar for fermenting into alcohol, and this helps make them less heavy for the amount of alcohol they contain. They are always bottle-conditioned and can be cellared. Their color can vary from full gold to deep brown, and each brewery usually has several styles of beer. The true Trappist breweries include: Orval (driest of the Trappist ales), Chimay (the first to sell commercially), Westmalle (their dark Dubbel at 6.5% ABV, and their most famous beer, a golden Tripel at 9% ABV, have made popular the idea that an "abbey-style Double" should be strong and dark and a "Triple" should be more potent but pale, Westvleteren (the smallest of the Trappist breweries and generally not available outside of Belguim), Rochefort (the least well-known), and Achel (the newest of the Trappist breweries). The Trappist styles you will see are:
  • Dubbel is dark and strong with rich malty flavors, spicy aromas and mild hop bitterness.
  • Tripel is traditionally bright yellow to gold in color and stronger than a Dubbel. The name "Tripel" comes from the brewing process. The brewers use up to three times the amount of malt than standard Trappist ales. They should have a big, dense, and creamy head. They should have complex aromas and flavors of spice, yeast, and fruit, a sweet finish a relatively light body because of the candy sugar used in fermentation. Bitterness is high for a beer with such a light body relative to its strength, but at times is barely perceived because of the balance between malts and hops. Tripels are notoriously alcoholic, yet the well made beers hide this characteristic.
  • Strong Golden Ales are characterized by an ABV of around 9%. It resembles an Abbey style Tripel but it has several significant differences. Tripels are frequently cloudy where a Belgian Golden Ale is clear (even though bottle conditioned). Belgian Golden Ales also have a cleaner taste, revealing malt and hops more than fruity aromas or the character of yeast. The benchmark for this style is Duvel. The name is a corruption of the Flemish word for Devil. Often you will see other beers of this style with Devil-themed names.
  • Saison – These were originally brewed in farmhouses, at the end of the cool season to last through the warmer months before refrigeration was common. It had to be sturdy enough to last for months but not too strong to be quenching and refreshing in the summer. It is now brewed year-round in tiny, artisanal breweries. Some have a slightly tart character, though not to the extent of a lambic (Belgian wheat beer). Some breweries use spices instead of hops which reinforces the belief that this is an old style, because hops were not commonly used in brewing until 400 or 500 years ago. This is a very complex style, and many are very fruity in aroma and flavor. Look for earthy yeast tones, lots of spice, medium bitterness and mild to moderate acidity. They tend to be more dry and with many only having a touch of sweetness. They were close to being an endangered style however there has been a revival.